Embellishing Baby Towel Bibs – Part 2

With the first appliqued Snoopy bib completed and the end result turning out fabulous, I quickly started to embellish another bib. This time for a little girl. And so with another piece of Snoopy fabric in hand, I got started.

.

This time I wanted the back ground peace signs of the fabric to be part of the embellishment. Having already done a square, I decided to try a circle. I hunted around the sewing room and the kitchen for the perfect circle but I could not find the right size. I finally remembered the circle cutter I had purchased many years ago. This is one of those craft items that you use about once every 3 years, that you really shouldn’t have taking up space in your closet but are so happy you have when you need it. I quickly cut the size of circle I wanted with the circle cutter, and then traced and cut out my fabric. Next I needed to fold and press the edges over evenly.

.

. 

I decided there was no way I could free hand the folding of the edges and get anything that still resembled a circle. So, I pulled out the seam 2 seam. I cut a smaller circle of the seam 2 seam and applied it to the back of the applique circle. I then snipped the edge of the circle and started to fold the edge over sticking it to the seam 2 seam as I went.

.

This worked out fabulously!

.

My end result was an almost perfect circle. I then applied the circle to the bib, holding it in place with the seam 2 seam, and stitched around the edge. I wish I had matched my thread color better to the fabric, but the stitching was very simple so it worked out ok. I stitched around the circle twice for a fun look.

. 

At this point the embellishment was done, but I was really not pleased with my end result. It was just a big circle on a towel. Even though it was a Snoopy in a circle on a towel, it still needed something else.

.

I returned to my sewing closet and stared, hoping for inspiration, when my eye drifted to the far back corner where my old fabric paints lived. I have not used these in years. I was afraid they would be all dried up, but with a little shaking, the paint began to flow again and then the fun started. I created several peace signs in different sizes and colors with the fabric paints and they looked great!

. 

Adding some pink ribbing around the neck was the final touch for this bib. The end results are so cute. I can’t wait to give it to some little girl.

.

As I pulled the fabric paints from the closet, ribbon, lace and various trims fell to the floor. As I picked them up, my creative mind went crazy. Pink Disney princess ribbon with pink matching lace. Disney Cars ribbon with car tracks made from fabric paint. Rainbow Snoopy ribbon with many more Snoopy appliques. A whole new use for my leftover scraps from my other sewing projects. The possibilities became endless, and I became very excited about what to make next.

.

I will definitely be making more baby bibs and embellishing them with and without my embroidery machine and maybe a combination of both. Let the fun begin!

.

If you want to see my original baby bib post you can find it HERE.

And I hope you all had a great Summer of LOVE and PEACE!

Embellishing Baby Towel Bibs – Part 1

I am spoiled. Very spoiled it seems. When it comes to embellishing the baby towel bibs that I make, I simply move over to my embroidery machine, pick a design and stitch away. The bibs always turn out so cute, and I have a chance to try a new design that I have always wanted to. But, what if I did not have an embroidery machine? Would I still make the bibs? How would I embellish them without it? Would it take a lot of time and be a lot of work? And would it be more time and work than I would want to put into a bib? After giving these questions way too much thought, I decided to embellish a couple of baby bibs without using my embroidery machine to see how they turned out.

.

My first thought was the simplest thing to do, apply a store bought applique to the front of the bib. So, I dug through the closet and found my small selection of appliques. Needless to say, I don’t have many and they are not really suited for a child or baby, plus most of them are small, so I was not really impressed with my store bought applique as an embellishment.

.

When my store bought appliques did not pan out, I decided I would make my own appliques instead. As I dug through the closet, I ran across my last Snoopy fabric purchases. Yes it’s true, I am the world’s biggest Snoopy fan! They would make great appliques, especially the black Snoopy pirate on the bib with the black ribbing.

.

Not wanting to use all my fabric on appliques, I only cut a small square from the corner of the fabric, but tried to get all the designs out of it. At this point, I had to make a decision. Just how much time did I want to spend embellishing baby bibs? I decided that I did not want this to be an all day project or  to be difficult, so I cut the designs in squares rather than cutting out the actual designs.

.

The next step was to attach the designs to the bibs.

.

I started by  folding the edges over and pressing them down. This worked fine but I quickly learned two things. First, I needed a little more edge to fold over, so next time I will cut the squares slightly larger. Second, I need to spend a little more time cutting and measuring. This does not mean I have to spend all day doing this or have it perfect, but a little more time centering the designs and folding the edge over evenly would have givien me a little more professional look. But, for a baby bib that the kid is going to spill mushy peas down the front of, my appliques were just fine.

.

Next I sprayed my squares with some spray adhesive. If you don’t have spray adhesive, you can just pin the squares to the bibs, but I am all about the easy way. I then arranged the designs on the bibs and took the project to the sewing machine where I quickly stitched the squares to the bib. This is where the larger edges would have been helpful.

.

I think the end result of this bib turned out great. The bib is just so cute! The time factor was minimal but the fun factor was off the charts. Now I can’t wait to make more bibs.

.

If you want to see my original baby bib post you can find it HERE.

.

Outgrown

Does anyone remember the monkey applique blog post I did several months ago? Well, the mother of the little girl who received the shirt with the applique on it, told me the other day that her little girl was quite distressed because she was unable to wear the shirt any longer. She said that not only is it getting too hot to wear a sweat shirt, but that she is starting to out grow the shirt and it will definitely not fit her next year.

. 

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

It tickles me to find out that something I have made is being worn and liked, so I went home and found some fabric to make a summer monkey shirt. This yellow piece of fabric has been hanging out it the stash to be made into sleepers, but I had plenty for t-shirts as well. I cut a size larger than I think the she is but cut it a little shorter. I wanted to make sure it would fit her well.

 .

I chose a different monkey applique for the front of this shirt than the last one. I learned a lot from the first monkey applique I did. I applied those lessons to this applique, and then I learned a couple of more things along the way. The thing that I learned the most was that I needed to practice doing appliques, to perfect the technique. Good thing I have more monkey appliques to try it out with. The applique turned out too cute. The rest of the construction of the shirt was very straight forward and I am pleased the the results. I am so excited to give the shirt to the little neighbor girl.

. 

Unlike sleepers, I do believe that if you are making one kid’s t-shirt, it is just as easy to make two, so you can sew from one to the next. With that in mind, I cut and made a second yellow kid’s t-shirt. I put this Woodstock design on the second shirt because it is one of those designs I have always wanted to try but did not have anything to put it on and it is a summer design. I did not have enough ribbing for the sleeves in the particle blue color I used for the neck, so I just hemmed the sleeves instead. I wish I would have known this when I cut out the shirt. I would have just cut the sleeves a little longer for the hem. All in all, the second t-shirt is just too cute too.

.

I love to sew kid’s clothes. They are just way too fun to make and I can be as creative as I want with them, plus fit is generally not as much of an issue as clothes for adults. Making these two t-shirts has me excited to sew more of them.

Digitizing your own Embroidery Designs Part 3

If you missed Part 2 of this series, you can find it HERE!

.

Digitizing your own Embroidery Designs Part 3: Creating a digitized design using Bernina Artista Designer Plus Software

.

As I mentioned in my previous post I’ve tried most of the embroidery digitizing software out there over the last 10 years or so, and even after trying the latest greatest I always tend to come back to my stand by software, Bernina’s Artista Designer Plus. In this post I will take you step by step how I use it to create my own custom designs which are then stitched on my latest sewing projects.

.

Step 1: Get ready! Get set! Start your software! GO!

.

Do you have it up and going? Great! Here we go!

.

You will notice that when Artista starts up it will be in freehand stitch placement mode where you can just draw stitches or shapes in freehand mode. This is the mode most embroidery software starts in.

.

.

We need to change it to picture mode so we can load our previously touched up artwork and trace the bitmapped image using the auto trace tool. To do this click on the picture tab up at the top of the design screen. Then click on the icon in the left toolbar that looks like a flower coming out of a folder. This is the Load Picture tool.

.

.

When the file browser comes up you can select your touched up artwork saved in a variety of formats like BMP (Bitmap), JPG (Jpeg), PNG (Ping), etc. I will be using my Mickey Indy Graphic that I touched up in Part 1 of this blog series. Click on the one you want to digitize and then click the Open button in the file browser and your design screen should now look like this.

.

.

The next step is to use the built in Artwork Preparation Tool on the left toolbar as shown below. Once you click on it the Artwork Preparation window will pop up and show you the number of colors in your design as shown below. You want to choose an amount of colors that still gives you good detail of the design, but no more than necessary. I never use more than 16, but I usually try to stay around 4-8 colors if possible.

.

.

Once you choose your number of colors and click on ok Artista will decrease the number of colors and smooth any lines in your design it can. It will also create large single color blocks if possible. This will provide the auto digitizing function with less work to do in the next step.

.

The next step is to take your prepared artwork and use the auto digitizer tool to insert stitches over your artwork. To do this click on the Design tab at the top of your design window as shown below. Then click on the Select Tool in the left toolbar. Next click on the prepared artwork image on the right. This will select it so it can be auto digitized. To do that click on the AutoDigitizer Tool on the left toolbar. It looks like a paintbrush with multicolored paint on it. At this point you will see an AutoDigitizer window pop up where you can change your Fills and Details stitch types. I normally leave these settings at their defaults but you can use the different stitch types to create different looks for your designs. Choose your stitch types or leave at the default and click on the OK button.

.

.

Now you should see the bar at the bottom showing that the AutoDigitizer is creating the different stitch objects of your design. Once it has finished your design window should look like the screen below.

.

.

If you click on the Artistic View tab you should now see a 3D representation of your completed auto digitized design as shown below.

.

.

This is all looking pretty good at this point except you will notice that it automatically digitized the white background of the design. I don’t want this to stitch so it needs to be removed. So I click back on the Design Tab up at the top of the design window. Then I click on the object Select Tool on the left toolbar (it looks like a white arrow). Then I click on the edge of the portion of the white background and it will be selected and turn to a pink color to show it selected.

.

.

Then I just hit the delete key on my keyboard and POOF it’s gone! It should now look like the screen below.

.

.

You can click on the Artistic View Tab at the top again to make sure you are satisfied with the results. Now make sure and use the File/Save As menu option from the top to save your design. Artista offers several design formats to save to so choose the one your embroidery machine uses. I always save in the PES format since I have Brother machines.

.

.

That is it! You are all done! Now you can change thread colors or resize your completed design to make it larger or smaller or rotate it, mirror it, or whatever else you would like to do with it using the built in tools.

.

I hope you enjoyed this blog post series, I sure had a lot of fun creating it! Please let me know if you would like to see other topics covered or if you have any questions and I will do my best to answer.

..

If you missed Part 2 of this series, you can find it HERE!

Digitizing your own Embroidery Designs Part 2

If you missed Part 1 of this Series, you can find it here.

.

Digitizing your own Embroidery Designs Part 2: Which Digitizing Software should I use?

.

First let’s get a few things out of the way. The software you use to digitize your designs probably isn’t going to be a very important decision for you. At first glance this might come as a surprise. But the reason I say that is simple. Most of the embroidery machine manufactures usually have their own in house software done by the 2 or 3 major embroidery software creation companies that create the software so they will all pretty much work the same way and have most of the same features. So no matter what brand of embroidery machine you have, you can usually use whatever digitizing software you like or that suits you best for the job at hand. Now they will tell you that you have to use their software so that you have the proper hoop support or the right thread colors, etc. but that is all bunk. They are just trying to lock you into their particular product so that you always have to purchase their support, their updates, their supplies, etc. Don’t buy into their hype. I’ve been using a different manufactures brand software for my machines for over 10 years now without problems.

I have always only owned Brother embroidery machines (for why read this previous blog post),  but I dislike their PE-DESIGN embroidery software that comes with their machines. It’s seems too simplistic to me, and it will not allow me to do some things I like to do, the way I like to do them, so I use Bernina’s Artista (Now called Bernina Designer Plus) software instead. Why do I use this particular software rather than another? Well for me, it was because I spent a lot of time at different sewing machine stores trying out everything they had in software (digitizing software) and hardware (embroidery machines) before I purchased anything. What I found by doing this was that after using Bernina’s Artista, Brother’s PE-DESIGN, Husqvarna Viking’s 4D/5D, Janome’s Digitizer/Customizer, Pfaff’s Creative 4D/5D, Singer’s PSW (Professional Sew -Ware), and several others along the way, I just liked the way the Bernina Artista software worked the best. More than anything it fit the way I seemed to want to work. So many of the embroidery software packages I tried just kept putting up road blocks and getting in my way. The Artista software never seems to get in my way, it let’s me get in and get what I need done, get out of it and get on with actually stitching out the design on my machine.

Most of the embroidery software comes in what they call modules. What that means is if you want to do resizing you have to load a single program to do just that. But then say you need to change the colors or maybe digitize something? Well that will require that you close the program you are in and load another one instead. And you have to continue to re-load the same design into the different modules over and over again. That was a real pain in the keister! The Viking and Pfaff software really suffer from this since the same company makes them both. I think they have something like 14 modules in all to let you use all of the different features they offer. The Bernina Artista software has all of the modules built in to the same program and will allow you to switch modes by just clicking a button in the toolbar. Simple, reliable, and easy to learn. Bernina’s software is created by the world leader in embroidery software Wilcom, who also makes their own commercial software called Wilcom Embroidery Studio (Wilcom ES) for the big embroidery houses to which they happily charge $5000.00 PLUS for a license to use it. I’ve used a demo of the Wilcom ES software and I can’t see anything I’m missing in my Bernina Software.

Now I am sure many will disagree with my choice of software and will say how much they love this one or that one because of this or that feature. And I won’t disagree with them. I’m sure they love what they use. I am just telling you why I use the software I use. I’m not saying that it is better than one software or another, just that it works best for me.

.

I should mention at this point that I am an Apple Mac user and that most of my embroidery software is used on my Mac using Virtual Machine software running Windows XP. Unfortunately for us Mac users, there is very little native Mac compatible embroidery software available, and the Mac compatible software that is out there is VERY expensive and only for commercial embroidery designers. There are a couple of bright spots on the horizon though. A friend of mine, Matthias Arndt, in Germany has for the last few years, been creating a Mac compatible embroidery software capable of letting you resize, recolor, flip, convert designs between several different formats and much more. His software is called StitchBuddy. It still will not let you digitize designs but it may in the future. It’s shareware and can be tried before you buy it at a cost of $50. I was a beta tester for the early versions and I think it is coming along fine. He seems to add new features to it a couple of times a year. He also makes a Quick Look plugin and a Spotlight Importer which he provides for free to let you view your embroidery designs and search for them in the Mac’s Finder. All very, very cool tools and they have decreased my need to start up Windows on my Mac far less than I previously did.

One other company called BriTon Leap has recently started converting their Windows embroidery tools to the Mac, but they are close to 3 times the cost of Matthias’s Mac tools. Still they are much less expensive than something like PE-DESIGN or Bernina Artista, etc. They make a Quick Look Plugin called Embrilliance Thumbnailer, a design converter called Convert it, mac, and what seems to be the first steps of a full blown Mac compatible digitizer called Embrilliance Essentials. But before you get too excited, it currently will only allow you to digitize letters and do some simple design editing. A wonderful first step, but maybe a year or two away from being a true replacement for the current Windows only tools. They also have a demo that you can download to try out their software before you have to pay for it. Clicking on any of the links above will take you directly to their respective websites for more information on their products. I wish I could say I was making money by linking to them here, but I’m not. I’m just trying to help out some friends I believe in and pass the word to other Mac users.

.

Stay tuned for part 3 of this series where I will take you step by step through a typical (for me anyway) digitizing session where I take the touched up artwork I created in part 1 and convert it to a fully useable, stitchable design.

.

If you missed Part 1 of this Series, you can find it here. Part 3 of the Series is here.

Monkey Sale

I received an e-mail from Smart Needle advertising a sale on their pack, Monkey Adventures. Since I love to embroidery monkeys on kids clothes, I could not resist purchasing this pack. The pack contained 10 double appliqué designs for the 5 by 7 hoop. Excited about stitching monkeys, on one of the trips to M&L fabric I specifically purchased fabrics to use in the appliqué’s of the monkeys.  When I cut out the Indy shirt for the nephew, I went ahead a cut a second shirt for a monkey design.

I had done appliques before, but I have never perfected the technique, so the stitching of the monkey design became a learning experience. It was actually more of a re-learning experience. I remember learning these same things previously when I appliqued some letters to a pair of sweat pants, but I did that so long ago now that I made the same mistakes again when doing these appliqués. I learned that I need a much sharper pair of very small scissors with very fine points if I am going to continue to do appliques. I was smart enough this time though to use a little spray adhesive on the applique fabric to keep it in place. This helped with both the stitching and the cutting of the applique. Although the design is not perfect, it is usable and sure turned out cute. If and when I stitch another monkey, I want to get a little fur or at least a fussy fabric to make the monkey.

As I stitched the monkey to the shirt, the shirt became quite feminine, so I have decided to give it to the little neighbor girl instead of one of the nephews. She just got a new little brother and needs a little extra attention.

 

Digitizing your own Embroidery Designs Part 1

Happy Fall Everyone! I thought I would give all my lovely readers something great to start Fall, the 1st of October (my favorite month) and the weekend with, so without further ado, here it is!

.

Before I start talking about the software used to digitize your own designs, and how to go about digitizing on your own, I need to talk about the first step in the process. And that step is getting the artwork, and then making it usable to be digitized. This is the most important step in the process, and if you do it correctly it will take the most time. The hardest part of the whole process is getting good artwork and tweaking it so that you will have no problems digitizing it using your choice of software later on. If you don’t do this step first your end results will most often end in frustration and disaster. I can not stress this point enough, if you don’t spend the time now getting your artwork in good shape before digitizing, you will spend hours and hours later trying to fix it.

.

Don’t try to use bad or low resolution clip art you have downloaded off of some website somewhere on the internet, you won’t like your finished results. Try to make sure your artwork is clean and in a medium to high-resolution format. I usually like to start with something at least in the 300×300 pixel size range. Of course if you have some camera ready artwork of 1200+ pixels in size you should be in great shape and you should get some excellent results without much tweaking. The lower the resolution the item you are trying to digitize is, the more work you will have to do up front getting it ready to digitize.

.

Of course you don’t need to have great camera ready artwork to start with. If you have a simple idea of what you want you can just sit down with a piece of blank white paper and sketch out a simple design of what you are trying to create. I’m no artist, so I usually try to use something that has already been drawn by someone else and go from there. But if you cannot do that, just sketch something simple onto a piece of plain white paper and either scan it in or take a photograph of your sketch to get it into your computer to get started on the cleaning up the bitmapped graphic before you begin the digitizing part.

.

Here are a few photos to show you what I am talking about in the good art department.

.

To the left is an original photo I found on the internet somewhere. I really wanted to use the Indy Mickey graphic for an embroidery design but I didn’t want to use the background since it is very complicated and it wouldn’t embroider well.

.

The first thing I did was extract Mickey from the background graphic. I won’t be describing the exact process or software I used to do this since almost any graphics editing software can do this. Do a search on the internet for ‘remove a background from a photo’ and you find several great articles and tools on how to do this. Of course the most common graphics editors used to do this are Adobe’s Photoshop and Photoshop Elements. They are great tools to use for this, but they are a little expensive in my opinion.

.

Once you have the graphic extracted from the background you should have something that looks like Image 1 below.

.

.

.

This is a good start, but it still needs to be edited by hand a little more to remove more detail before going any further.

.

The next step is an important one too. On most designs you will want a heavy black edge around the design so if you look closely at Image 2 you can see how I traced around all of the lighter lines around the border and the light grey colored areas to make them a thick dark black. This little bit of editing will give you a nice dark satin stitch around the border of your design once we get it digitized.

.

Here is my edited image a little further on in the process.

.

In Images 3 and 4 I am getting really close to the final bitmapped image that I will put into my digitizing software. You will notice that I have continued to edit the graphic until I have changed the hair and teeth on the golden idol to more solid colors rather than the individual fine lines that the original graphic had. I’ve also simplified the shoe strings and shadows on the shoes since at smaller sizes these would end up being unrecognizable blobs of knotted up thread.

.

In Image 4 you can see I changed some of the colors in the graphic to other colors that already exist in the graphic to reduce the number of thread colors I would need to use when digitizing the graphic. The fewer colors you have  in your bitmapped graphic once it has been tweaked, the easier it will be to get a good digitized embroidery design in the end. Most graphic editing software has a feature to reduce the amount of available colors in a graphic image. It’s best to reduce the image you are working with to 256 colors or less before trying to digitize it.

.

Well I hope that gives you a pretty good idea on how to get your original ideas, concepts and designs into your computer and get them into a condition that will work well for digitizing. The next step will be to get that graphic into your embroidery software and finishing the touching up and final digitizing of the design. I will cover that in my next how to: Digitizing your own Embroidery Designs Part 2.

.

Part 2 of this series is HERE, Part 3 of this series is HERE.

“Doomed” Fraying

I know I keep talking about writing some technical posts on how to digitize designs, but I am too excited about my new designs and have been playing with them rather than focusing on the technical aspects and getting them written down. So, don’t give up on those posts yet, they are coming but in the mean time, take a look at my steps to complete the Messenger Bag of DOOM!

Looking at the bag, I did not want to just stitch the design to the lid of the bag and have the back of the design show every time the  bag was opened. I thought about unstitching the lid of the bag from its lining so I would only be stitching on the top, but decided that was way too much work. Staring at my sample pieces of the designs, I decided I would try to make a patch to sew to the lid, leaving only a single stitch line on the underside of the lid. Commercial patches are made with a special merrowing machine that makes a sealed merrowed edge to keep the sides of the patch and the embroidery from unravelling over time. These are single purpose machines, and that is all they do. Because I don’t have have a need for such a machine very often, I think $3000.00 is a bit much to pay for such a machine. Therefore I would need to make my own edge.
.

A very long time ago, I tried to make a patch but had very little luck with the process. I embroidered a design and then statin stitched a frame around it. I then cut close to the statin stitches and used some seam 2 seam to attach it to my project. It was great at first, but over time the edges started to fray and the statin stitches started to fail. I was not really happy with the end result. I thought on the bag that I could statin stitch the patch directly to the bag and that my solve some of the problems, but I certainly am not skilled enough to free hand the statin stitches and because of the size of the designs, there was no way I could stitch it in with the embroidery machine. The thought of using a fabric paint around the edge was quickly discarded. Although there are projects just right for fabric paint, this bag is just not one of them. I feel it would have make the project look homemade. Returning back to the picture of the bag from Disney, I decided to try what they did, sew the patch on and then distress the edges.
.

Having never done a distressed edge before, I was not willing to test it out first on the bag and ruin it, so I grabbed a piece of fabric from my last shopping spree and cut out a size 3 sweat shirt. One of the nephews loves Indiana Jones as much as the little brother so a shirt would be great for him. I left about a 1 and 1/2 inch border around the design and then stitched close to the design edge, sewing the patch to the front of the shirt.  Then I started fraying the edges. After fraying for a little over 2 hours, I was getting no where. Discouraged a little, I cut some of the border off and started to fray from there. When I finally frayed down to the design, I could see just how much border I really wanted. After trimming some of the border and having a good start, the fraying went a lot easier and faster. So, what I learned was that when fraying an edge do leave a good border and don’t let the starting discourage you. The more you fray the faster it goes. After fraying, the design will need a “haircut” to get rid of split ends and long hairs. I am super pleased with the results even though I trimmed some spots a little too close to the designs.
.

I wanted to see how the design washed, so a trip to the laundry was the next step. After a washing and drying, the edges of the design curled around the design. I like the curl except that it covers the edge of the design a bit. So, I learned that when stitching the design down to not stitch quite so close to the edge  leaving a place for the curl.

.

Excited by the results of the sweat shirt, I sewed the design I was going to use to the bag and started to distress the edges. When I took a break from fraying, I decided to iron the sweat shirt’s design and learned that I should have used something under the design to keep it flat to the shirt like some adhesive spray or seam 2 seam. Augh! The bag also needed this too. So, to help this problem, I stitched in the ditch around some of the center parts of the design. When I stitched the design to the bag, I left a border for the curl and I left the frayed edges longer. I am not going to wash the bag myself, but I am sure that will happen sometime in the future when it gets dirty, so I have ruffed up the fray edge to give it a more worn look.

.

As always, sewing is a learning process. I have learned a great deal from both the sweat shirt and the bag. I am very pleased with the end result and will happily apply another patch with a distressed edge to any project as it give it a cool worn look that is very in style these days. Hopefully the nephew and the brother like the end results as well.

Creating and Digitizing your own Embroidery Designs SNEAK PEEK!

I have been very busy at work the past week and I have only had a small amount of free time so I have been spending it digitizing some new embroidery designs for my new Messenger Bag of DOOM project. I have been taking notes along the way so I can give everyone a full how to of exactly what I did to get from my ideas to the final designs but it will take a lot more time than I originally anticipated to not only get these new designs created and tested, but also to write up blog posts on exactly how you can do it yourself using your own software and equipment.

I doubt a lot of you are very interested in Indiana Jones or Raiders of the Lost Ark, Temple of Doom, The Last Crusade, The Kingdom of the Crystal Skull, etc. But I think several of you might be interested in how you can take your own graphic or picture of any type and convert it into machine embroidery to stitch on a garment, or just make an embroidered patch that you can sew or iron on to something you have later. I didn’t feel it was fair to keep those of you interested in this project waiting any longer, so for the meantime here is what I have been working on in picture form. The full how to guides are coming soon. I promise.

Indiana Jones and the Messenger Bag of DOOM!

Well okay, it’s probably not all that exciting, at least not the doom part anyway…

So my younger brother is a avid reader of books and he is always on the lookout for a good book bag or backpack so he can transport his current reading material from his trips safely. He is also of the age that rather than playing cowboys and indians as a kid he played Indiana Jones and the evil egyptian tomb robbers or something like that. So one day I found an Indiana Jones backpack at Disney for him and I picked it up and sent it to him. He loved the backpack so much he ended up tearing a big gash in the backpack from overuse carrying books on his travels. It didn’t surprise me as it was a smaller, less expensive backpack mainly made to haul kids toys around or some duty much lighter than the one he intended his for. I told him I would look for something else the next time I was at Disney. The next time I went I headed straight for the Indiana Jones Outfitters to see what they might have available.

The only thing they really had was a small messenger bag that wasn’t even constructed at well as the backup I had gotten for him previously. I knew it would never hold up for what he was using it for, but I did like the design of it and so I started doing a little research on the matter.

From what I can tell from all the various movie trivia sights and talking to some prop masters I know I found out that the bag that Indy wore on his shoulder through most of the Raiders of the Lost Ark, Temple of Doom, and the Last Crusade movies was a military paratrooper bag with a slight modification. The original canvas belt was removed and was replaced with a black leather belt. Other than that it was pretty much a straightforward paratrooper bag made of heavy duty olive drab canvas.

I did some searching and found this nice one for a reasonable cost on Amazon and ordered a couple. When they came I opened one, packed all of my travel gear in it and headed out on a four day trip to see how well it worked and if it would hold up. I am very happy to say that it passed with flying colors, has a lot of interior room for a medium sized shoulder bag and the main thing is it seems to be constructed very well and is very tough. I think it will work well as a replacement bag for my younger brother as a new book bag for him. And I am loving mine on trips too.

Now the next matter at hand. The younger brother liked the looks of the small, poorly made one I had found at Disney and he really wanted something like that. So I decided to have my husband digitize me some Indiana Jones designs and once he had them done I would embroider them onto the exterior flap of the bag. Upon closer inspection I have decided that I don’t want the back of the embroidery to be seen on the back of the exterior flap, and I don’t want to go to the time and trouble to rip the seams of the flap, and stitch it to the inside fabric and then stitch it back together. Instead I have decided to do like Disney had done with their bag and embroider the designs to patches and then attach the patches to the bag to further give it that old-timey look that is so in these days. Once the husband gets the designs digitized I will get them stitched to patches and then attached to the bag and I will take picture and let you know how it went.

And if he is REALLY, REALLY nice to me, one of the pockets may even contain a Staff of RA headpiece when he gets it. You never know!

To be continued…