Third Time Is A Charm?

Well, not quite. After tracing my altered pattern and wanting to continue the altering process, it was time to make a third shirt from my altered v-neck, no collar, button front shirt pattern. But, I hesitated. Did I really want another new shirt from the same pattern, thus giving me another shirt in the same style? Would my co-workers begin to talk behind my back because I always wore the same shirt, or at least the same shirt style? So after pondering this, I started to think how could I change it up and still try this pattern just one more time. The answer came in the form of rayon. Yes, I would make the pattern again but with a rayon fabric instead of a cotton fabric. And that way I could continue the altering of the length and button placement, but still have a different enough look that no one would think it was the same design as my previous attempts.


Although it was the same style, rayon would have a different drape and wear and so it should end up looking totally different. In theory, this sounded like the answer, but in reality it really wasn’t.


Let me explain why from the beginning.


P1030681Instead of heading back to the boxes of cotton prints that I have, I turned to my boxes of rayon and picked a piece that I liked and would be nice for fall. The cutting of the fabric from the newly traced pattern went smoothly. I cut out the shirt and sleeves a little shorter than the pattern showed because I knew that the adjusting of the length would come while being hemmed. I used a light interfacing that did not give me any hassles. The seams of the shirt sewed up perfectly. All went smoothly until it was time to hem the bottom of the shirt and the sleeves.


Knowing that I had cut the shirt and sleeves a little shorter, I took a good 1 inch hem, much larger than I would normally do, and tried the shirt on. It was still so long in both the shirt length and the sleeve length though. How could that be? I had cut them shorter and took a bigger hem. The should have been smaller, not larger. The answer again was the rayon. The stretch and drape of the rayon made the shirt look longer than the cotton shirts had. Argh! So, I started to unpick all the hems. As you know, this is not my favorite thing to do. After unpicking everything I had just hemmed, I cut another good inch off the length of the shirt and the sleeves. Then I re-hemmed the shirt and sleeves with another good 1 inch hem. This was the answer to the shirt length, but now the sleeves were too short. Argh! So, I unpicked the sleeve hems again and reduced the hem to just 1/2 inch. And that solved the sleeve length problem.


P1030685With the hems finally done, I started to play with the button placement. After some thought I abandoned the idea. Because of the rayon, I had not done my first alteration of adjusting the length of the shirt, so it was not a good idea to adjust the button placement when I would be going back and adjusting the length later. I would just have to re-adjust the button placement again once that was done. So I just kept the buttons in the same spot as my previous shirt had them in.


Although the shirt I made will make a fine work shirt for this fall, this shirt did not help with me much in trying to perfect my sloper pattern, but it was a valuable lesson about working with rayon. I should now go and find some cotton fabric I like, and make this pattern one more time so I can finish the alterations I want to make to my pattern, but I really don’t want another shirt from this pattern just yet. So I am going to fold this pattern up and pull out my next sloper pattern that needs to be altered for my next project instead. It is a camp shirt style, a shirt with a collar but not a stand and a folded back lapel. I will make the same alterations to this sloper that I did on the last one, but I will work more on the length and the button placement and then re-apply those changes back to the v-neck no collar sloper pattern. So eventually I will finally get the alterations I want and need, but with a few different shirt styles to wear.


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